Friday, April 29, 2011

春天

花突然盛开
河水也开始泛滥
春天来了

我却还在去年的七月
有时盛夏如同北方
夜深时分
霜慢慢落下
冻僵一地岁月

四季轮回后
日子依旧丰盛
风里,树义无反顾地抽芽
重复
所有的忧伤

即使是春天
温暖的阳光下
人们仍匆匆地
赶走着痛苦之路

Thursday, April 28, 2011

奥维德的故乡(4)


的确,奥维德的铜像至今依然在Sulmona的九月二十日广场上站立着。

铜铸的奥维德披着袍子,一只脚迈在前面,低着头沉思。九月二十日广场不大,名字古怪却不知从何而来。

这个于前43年出生在这里,与卡图鲁斯和维吉尔齐名的古罗马诗人,十二岁就离开家乡到罗马和雅典去求学。他是一个情圣,18岁开始写诗,用当时流行的哀歌体写爱情诗献给美貌女人,不论她们是名门闺秀、公主贵妇还是歌伶名妓。他的情人们经常是有夫之妇,于是他就教她们如何巧妙地欺骗丈夫,如何取悦男人,如何使爱情久长的艺术。要是失恋了,他还传授解除痛苦的“爱药”,提出很实用的办法,比如远游,旅行,转移爱恋对象。。。很有点当今“菲利医生”的意思。

他的书因为既赞美了爱情的神圣,又极尽揶揄讽刺情人的忐忑不安,机关算尽的心态,在当时几乎部部都是“best seller”,比如《情诗集》、《神与巨人的战斗》、《女杰传》、《妇女美容剂》和《变形记》等名篇。 《变形记》一般公认是奥维德最好的作品。

在Sulmona城外的山脚下,至今还留有一片房舍庄园的遗迹,这是传说中的奥维德的老家。他20出头的时候,在Sulmona当过片警,法官,娶了大奶,又离了,二奶,最后在罗马娶到了贵族出身的小三。50岁时,得罪了当时的执政党,被冠两条罪状:一是参与淫乱行为,二是写作诲淫诗篇。从此,奥维德的著作全被禁止,公共图书馆的藏本也一律销毁。又被驱除罗马,流放到多瑙河口的一个小城托米(Tomi),公元十八年,年寿六十,客死他乡,再也没回到Sulmona。

Wednesday, April 27, 2011

奥维德的故乡(3)


Sulmona离佩斯卡拉不远,却是从海边进到了山里。这里是Peligna山谷,Peligna是泥浆的意思。史前时代这一片曾是一个大湖。大地震后水消失了,成了沼泽地。附近的三座山据说是当时湖心里的岛。公元前12世纪就开始有居民了,被称为Peligni人,这些人是从小亚细亚迁移来的。

Sulmona是Peligni人的一个城市。到了公元前50年左右,已经非常出名了。当然,更让它出名,并且长盛不衰的还是因为罗马最伟大的诗人奥维德说:

"Sulmo mihi patria est" - (Sulmona is my home)

Tuesday, April 26, 2011

奥维德的故乡(2)

At Easter, crowds gather to witness the Madonna che Scappa. This ceremony involves the procession of a statue of the Madonna which is carried across the square while the bearers run to encounter a statue of the resurrected Christ on the other side of the square.



It’s difficult not to feel that Sulmona’s Easter re-enactment of ‘La Madonna che Scappa’ (Running Madonna) symbolises Spring throwing off the dark winter months and the growing green of Abruzzo as new shoots take hold. Whichever meaning you like to apply, the rush of hope and excitement of the Madonna as she races towards her resurrected son or that of Spring clipping the hungry months to bring new crops, livelihood and riches to happy families, it provides a great reason to swing by the medieval city of Sulmona (famous already as the birthplace of Ovid, sugared-almond Confetti and red garlic) on a Easter Sunday morning.

The ceremony has been taking place since the C11th, organised by the Santa Maria di Loreto Brotherhood, whose male members the Lauretani wear white tunics with a shiny green cape to symbolise purity & hope. It’s interesting that the younger members seem instructed not to wear earrings although individuals’ sneaky bangles & bracelets remain semi visible under all the symbolic robes.



They enter the Piazza Garibaldi at 11.00 led by a brass band, some members carry aloft statues of the St Peter & John who are reported to have been the first to witness the ‘rebirth’, while others carry heavy lamps topped with white tissue rosettes. They carry a statue of the risen Jesus which is carefully placed down by the red curtained central arch of the biscuit-coloured arches that form the Roman aqueduct that frames Piazza Garibaldi. An open air mass with choral chants is led by the Bishop of Sulmona and the piazza begins to fill till by 12noon you are left feeling a little squeezed as every step and balcony is packed tight, but also amused at the banter of locals who vie desperately for a good view through the throng, complaining and remonstrating at anyone who happens to be of a higher-than-average height…



At noon the statues of the saints are paraded down to the C14th Chiesa di San Filippo Neri, where they take it in turns to cajole the statue of Madonna of Loreto, shut inside the night before her son is resurrected. After three attempts she finally comes out of the church door held aloft by six Lauretani and dressed in a black mourning coat, holding a white handkerchief. Down the steps she travels and into the main passage of the piazza between the crowd followed by the two apostles.

Suddenly she sees her reborn son and with a loud swoosh and a bang her mourning cloak is whipped away to reveal her bright green dress that symbolises new life; twelve doves break free that are held under her cloak and bangers explode as the Lauretani dash and she appears to fly joyously, rather than run perhaps, to embrace her son waiting at the end of the piazza. Bells peal, fireworks are left off, the band plays and the crowd excitedly embrace and celebrate the pinch of folklore and superstition that is attached to the enactment; if the mourning coat falls off correctly and the doves fly high it will be a bountiful year for their crops.



Friday, April 22, 2011

奥维德的故乡(1)

从伦敦飞到罗马,出了机场我就找去贝斯卡拉的长途汽车。

这个冬天我是在满天风雪中度过的。在波士顿,芝加哥,伦敦三地飞来飞去,已经忘记了什么叫做阳光灿烂的日子。

而这个人间四月天,车窗外亚平宁山脉的顶端还被雪覆盖着,阳光下起伏的山峦晶莹的如同薄薄的蝉翼。我突然恍惚起来,面对满山满谷翠绿的树,鲜艳的花,不知身在何处了。温暖的阳光像钉子一样穿透了我被冰雪淫雨封锁了一冬的身体,春天原来就这样来了。

长途车经过了很多小镇,在街道中穿行。有时街道很窄,伸手就可以触摸到年代久远的门窗,路边的树。。。时值中午,街头站着三五个男人,大声地聊天,女人在阳台上晒洗衣服,小孩子在巷子里骑车。。。我总是想到很久以前我住过的中国。马可。波罗究竟从中国带回了什么?为什么意大利的小镇和中国竟然如此神似呢?

贝斯卡拉是个美丽的海滨城市。沙滩细腻如水,亚得里亚海的海水碧蓝。海滨大道两旁种植着高高的棕榈树,街头很多咖啡,酒馆和时装礼品店。城中还有一条河,岸边有渔民在卖河鲜。不远处的老城区有诗人邓南遮的故居。不过,这并不是我此行的目的地。

这里,是异国
我却看见
一扇
故乡的门
门掩黄昏

鸽子
莧着寂寞
飞了千年
在正午的石阶上
等待

杨柳堆烟
帘卷青蔓
沿败井
江南不再

归去的路
夭折在四月的风里

Wednesday, April 20, 2011

意大利捡的古董



四月二十日,BDL机场

这个黄昏我要去
另一座城市
我的情人说
他在焦急地等我
暮色下
人群和原野
随夕阳一起消失
鸟群却似故乡
栖在远处的树上

街上的店铺正在匆匆打烊
夜晚熟视无睹,兀自来临
四月的风是归来的过客

我不知道
我为何孤独的坐在这里
寻找,也许
本来就在陌生的地方
咖啡很苦
我不想放糖
我的母亲
在老房子里伤心地叹气
她从早晨的薄雾中
听见
我父亲的呼吸

我们永远不懂
什么叫做命运
春天
也并非只有
一种季节
所有旅途上的行者
却走向共同的终点

此时此刻
我一如既往地爱你

Sunday, April 17, 2011

偶然之街

我总是经过
这条偶然之街
尘土覆盖着
痛,寂寞,去年的悲哀
春天初开的
杏花
梵高痴迷的爱
日复一日
在阳光里打颤

我知道你依然时时念我
黄昏不远
风吹来的记忆
千疮百孔
而窗前仍是那株
从未结果的树

天却碧蓝的明亮如洗

河水还在耐心等待
两岸的枯枝朽木
鸟儿温柔的窝

孤独的垂钓者

前方将是
丰饶的海?

Friday, April 15, 2011

Ovid




Ovid among the Scythians


Ovid Banished from Rome


Fresco of Medea from Herculaneum.

Wednesday, April 13, 2011

Andrew Daniel Gay


From Tom:

Little Andrew Daniel Gay was born yesterday. 12 pounds, 1 oz; 22 3/4 inches long. So now you can another little boy to your list of favorites. :) Picture attached...

take care,
Tom

Sulmona, Italy