Sunday, March 24, 2013

Via Garibaldi (Genoa)


从游轮上下来,踏上热那亚的陆地,这是我第一眼的印象:


我想我明白了那张空无一人的画。

现在,我要去Via Garibaldi, 亲临其境那张haunt了我一路的Via Garibaldi的照片。

Charles Dickens gave a suggestive description of Strada Nuova in his travelogue Pictures from Italy.

...When shall I forget the Streets of Palaces: the Strada Nuova and the Strada Balbi! or how the former looked one summer day, when I first saw it underneath the brightest and most intensely blue of summer skies: which its narrow perspective of immense mansions, reduced to a tapering and most precious strip of brightness, looking down upon the heavy shade below! The endless details of these rich Palaces: the walls of some of them, within, alive with masterpieces by Vandyke! The great, heavy, stone balconies, one above another, and tier over tier: with here and there, one larger than the rest, towering high up—a huge marble platform; the doorless vestibules, massively barred lower windows, immense public staircases, thick marble pillars, strong dungeon-like arches, and dreary, dreaming, echoing vaulted chambers: among which the eye wanders again, and again, and again, as every palace is succeeded by another- the terrace gardens between house and house, with green arches of the vine, and groves of orange-trees, and blushing oleander in full bloom, twenty, thirty, forty feet above the street—the painted halls, mouldering, and blotting, and rotting in the damp corners, and still shining out in beautiful colours and voluptuous designs...

加里波第街(Via Garibaldi)是热那亚历史中心最重要的街道之一,以其古代宫殿著称。 这条街始建于1550年.最初称为大街(Strada Maggiore),后改名新街(Strada Nuova),1882年以朱塞佩·加里波第重新命名。 这条街长250米,宽7.5米。

2006年7月,加里波第街作为“热那亚历史中心的新街和罗利宫殿体系”的一部分被列为世界遗产。



 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
这条大街其实就是当年热那亚的豪宅区,有钱人的宫殿。现在大多改成博物馆了。意大利那时的有钱人不仅有钱,还个个都是艺术收藏家,不光是珍藏艺术品,还珍藏艺术家。难怪意大利创造了人类最辉煌的艺术。

这豪宅区富丽堂皇,全是石头建筑,几百年下来坚实如初,地基纹丝不动。石砖地平滑如洗,是海水的颜色。

路上人很多,可大多是旅游者,现在是白天,如果要是夜晚。。。在这条大街上,谁又不是流浪者?

No comments: